1. Sketch out existing conditions--

• Dimensions of the area
• Size, type and location of beds and plants
• Location of the water source
• Best place to run the main line (central, yet out of harms way)

2. Familiarize yourself with the basic drip irrigation system components:

• Water source
• On-off valve (for small systems, look for a low-flow shutoff) and anti-syphon device. Keep water in the system from flowing back into your clean water supply.
• Filter - even city water pipes contain sediments that can clog your system.
• Timer - you really need one of these. Multiprogram automatic controllers are the best.
• Pressure Regulator - unless you plan to use multiple-outlet emitters designed for high-pressure operation, the pressure from your household line will probably blow your drip irrigation system. A pressure regulator reduces this pressure before it hits the system. It's best to have one pressure regulator for each main line.
• Main line, connectors and emitters - Poly-vinyl chloride (PVC) pipe is a rigid type of pipe--usually buried a foot below the surface. Risers attach to this pipe and bring water to the surface where it is delivered to the plants through emitters. Buried PVC pipe is especially good for permanent installation and where foot traffic, children's play or vandalism may break or disconnect a surface system. Extra time is required to bury this type of system.
  Polyethylene tubing is a flexible plastic pipe commonly installed on the surface and covered with mulch. Emitters connect directly to the main line or to smaller lateral branches. This system is easy to access but may be vulnerable to damage in high activity areas.
• Emitters - emitters let you choose exactly where you want the water from the main and branch lines to go. Water drips directly into the soil and plant foliage stays dry, diminishing the spread of fungal diseases. Emitters come in numerous configurations. Purchase emitters according to flow rate--how many gallons of water per hour (gph) you want to direct to each plant. This will depend on the type and size of plants and type of soil. Use higher flow emitters in sandy soil and for deep-rooted plants and lower flow emitters in clay soil and for shallow-rooted plants. In most cases you want to wet at least 60 percent of the root zone.
• Mist sprayers, minisprays and minisprinklers - good for continuous low vegetation (such as ground cover), plants with shallow root systems, any vegetation that benefits from overhead water and high humidity (e.g., ferns) These components operate more like conventional sprinklers but run on low pressure, low flow and lose less water through evaporation. Especially effective in sandy soils.
• Continuous-flow pipe - Best used with a filter and pressure regulator, continuous-flow pipe oozes water into the soil continuously. You don't need to add emitters, so set up is a no-brainer. The downside is the holes have a tendency to clog.

3. Measure flow from the water source. Turn water on to full flow and let it run into a big bucket for exactly one minute. Measure the volume of water and multiply by 60 to get gallons per hour (gph).

4. Calculate what you'll need to set up your system: number of emitters, size and amount of pipe, etc. We have a drip irrigation guide available for your information at our Cole Street nursery, and we will be glad to answer any questions you might have.

Know your water flow and pressure. You may need to install a pressure regulator.
Know what type(s) of soil you have and tailor your system accordingly.
Changes in elevation will change system water pressure.
Friction will reduce water pressure at the end of long lines. Increase the diameter of the main line to compensate.
Different plants have different watering needs.

1. Install filter, timer and pressure regulator.
2. Install main line and emitters or other components to manufacturers specifications.
3. Remove the end cap and flush the system.
4. Turn water off, put the end cap back on, and turn water back on ... inspect your new system.

Check the system at regular intervals while it is running.
Repair leaks immediately.
Make sure emitters have not become clogged.
Remove end caps and flush the lines twice a year.
Don't chop or puncture any part of your system with hand or power tools!
Adjust the irrigation schedule monthly, according to seasonal weather and watering requirements.
Adapt your system as the landscape changes